B Structural Mounting. Screws shall not be permitted to pass through the box unless exposed threads in the box are protected using approved means to avoid abrasion of conductor insulation. If so, is there a better way to support old work boxes than just relying on the drywall tabs? Junction boxes are not to have additional holes drilled into them for securing them to studs. The box you have shown can be used and mounted fairly secure if you take the time to cut the opening as small as possible so the box tabs have more drywall to support it.
A better solution is to get a box similar to the one below with side screws already included to be mounted to the stud. This is the same size as the old work box but allows you to screw directly into the stud. Plastic is not metal. Plastic boxes are flimsy things. They don't have any strength except where they have been gusseted specifically to have strength. This means you cannot simply add mounting points anywhere on the box. The box will simply crack there, either from the violence of a self-drilling screw, or the stress points from a drilled hole clamped by a tightened screw, or the physical strain of people wrestling plugs out of a stiff socket.
No, boxes of this type are made to be used exactly one way : placed in a drywall hole exactly the size of the provided template , and then clamp to the drywall using the ears on the outside and the swinging clamps on the inside.
You are required to use that box that way, or not at all. I quite agree "to the drywall" is a bad deal and will not withstand ordinary stresses of wrestling a 3-prong socket out of a new, quality stiff receptacle socket. I'd find another way. If you want to 'freestyle' mountings like this, it's time to move over to steel boxes. Steel has the strength to allow you to drill holes where you please and use them for mounting screws.
Steel is also vastly superior for every purpose of a junction box containing arc fires, not melting and letting a fire spread, causing loose or arcing wires to trip the breaker. It even self-grounds switches and certain receptacles, so one less wire to wrestle. Really, in a metal box you attach your cables' ground wires to the box first and push them all the way into the back of the box, and never touch them again.
For old work, you need to select a box that has internal cable clamps. This will also have fewer knockouts which makes it easier to find hole locations. When I've had to do this, here's how I did it: Cut the new opening to size for the new box. Apply glue and slip them into the opening above and below with the edges aligned horizontally with the edge of the top and bottom respectively. Clamp in place until the glue dries. I'd mark the holes and pre-drill because if you bust out the plywood, you'll have a real mess on your hands!
It's a little time consuming, but turns out a great result. Your other option of course is to simply cut out the sheetrock from one stud to the other, install a new work box and repair the sheet rock, but I don't think that's what you want to do. BTW, just screwing inside the box to the stud will result in a lot of movement of the box when plugging in and unplugging cords. Don't ask me how I know this!
Did it once, never again. Some people go overboard on switches. If they were allowed to design the switches in their car they might have one for the front left parking light and another for the front right parking light and a 3rd and 4th for the back left and right. How about just one switch to turn on all 4 parking lights. Plastic and fiberglass are the most common, make sure they have a 2 hour fire rating stamped in the box.
Does the height, that is marked on a stud, go on the bottom, center or top of the box? The answer depends on your company policy.
Recommended height method is to mount the;. If you are new to an electrical company, make sure you and everyone else on the team is using the same height and height method. Not only do companies use different height methods, they use different heights. The recommended height is the height specified by architectural blueprints or 44 inches to the bottom of device boxes for switches, kitchen counter outlets and garages.
Recommended height for low room receptacles is 12 inches to the bottom of the box. If you are unsure of the sheet rock depth keep in mind that it is better to be too far in the wall than sticking out of the wall. You can always use longer screws when the box is too too far in the wall but it is harder to fix a box that is too far out.
You will have to cut the box nails, push the box in and remount the box with screws or grind off the protruding edge with a stone wheel on a battery drill. Notice the depth marks on the side of the box are not tight against the stud. This box is sticking through the sheet rock.
This box is not plumb, it was nailed right on top but not the bottom. This is an over head view looking down on three 3 gang switch boxes with sheet rock added below it to show the finished wall depth.
A crooked stud can cause your box to stick out past the sheet rock, even if you nail your box at the correct depth to the stud. Use your hammer to hit the stud at the base until it turns your box straight.
If the left stud is warped try the right stud. Here are some techniques for mounting boxes in a space too narrow to swing a hammer;.
This front mount box can be screwed or stapled to the front of the stud as shown. Unfortunately this specially designed box is twice the cost of a standard box and not always around when you need it.
With a fiberglass box be sure to set the screw in the reinforced area where the nail was as shown. Pull the nails out of the box and screw the box to the stud with sheet rock screws as shown. Be careful not to crack the box. Plastic boxes work better with screw mounting. If your hammer hits this circle shaped pivot, you will damage your tool. There are other ways to mount a box in a tight pocket.
Once they are cut, install them using self-tapping screws. For tips from our Construction reviewer on how to install drywall or sheathing over your metal studs, keep reading! Did this summary help you? Yes No. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers.
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Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. Rent or purchase the right tools. Working with steel studs requires a few special tools. You can typically get the best equipment for this at local construction rental stores.
Determine the number of steel studs needed. You should typically allow for 1 stud per every 12 inches mm of linear wall space. Purchase steel plates — also called tracks — for the bottom and top of the wall by measuring the linear feet of the wall and doubling it. Add an additional stud for each side of a window or door. Chalk the lines where the track will be fastened to the floor using a chalk box.
Snap a chalk line across the perimeter of the floor to outline where your track will need to go. Screw the lower lengths of track to the floor. Use the chalk line to position your lower track and screw the track in by first drilling a hole into the track and stud, and then fastening with a screw. If you're drilling through concrete, try using the power nailer or hammer drill for an easier time. On longer, straight runs, overlap the adjoining tracks at least 6 inches and secure the overlap to the floor with a concrete screw.
Plumb the top track. To make sure that the upper and lower track are plumb, you can use either a laser level, a plumb bob, or two water levels: To use a laser level, simply place it in the bottom middle of the track and turn it on to shine a vertical laser up to your wall. This point will be your plumb point on the upper wall.
Most contractors recommend using a laser level for efficiency and ease of access. Using a plumb bob is similar to using a laser level. These openings come with rubber cap grommets to make sure no moisture will invade your wirings regardless of any elements present in the area. If you wonder about its longevity, LeMotech manufactures enclosures for electrical systems with high-quality ABS materials.
The Hubbell Raco is known for its multi-functional electrical boxes, which serve their purpose perfectly. As expected, this electrical wall box package comes with a spare box, a switch box, and a drawn, provides easy installation procedure both for experts and competent electricians.
The pre-galvanized metal construction ensures that the device can withstand severe weather changes and exposure throughout the year. Products that are UL listed have passed safety standards and ensure the excellent quality you can rely on. Regarding the product specifications, it is 4 inches square and runs 2. Furthermore, it is designed to accept a 3. The product includes cable knockouts that are partially stamped in your junction box, which services switches and outlets.
The Seal Proof Rectangular Outlet Box is ideal both for indoor and outdoor use due to the powder coat finished making it weather-resistant. In detail, the electrical box is made of heavy-duty die-cast aluminum. Such a robust construction can withstand high heat and significant pressure without getting damaged too soon. On purchasing this product, you will have in hand mounting lugs, self-threading ground screws, and of course, closure plugs.
Such a full package promotes breezy and straightforward installation. As this metal box is 2 inches deep, fitting multiple wirings in for safety and security. Electrical enclosures must be reliable, durable, and heavy-duty as it is responsible for the overall power system of your home for your device and appliances to function correctly. The type of installations your home needs is essential for you to find the best product for your needs.
There are primarily two types of structures for most electrical enclosures: old works and new works. When checking for an electrical enclosure, you need to identify the following requirements: gangs, the amount of gang per box determine the width, amount of devices that can fit in like dimmers, switches, and outlets. Setback determines the distance from your wall surface to the station of your box.
This is determined by cubic inches. The materials used to manufacture electrical enclosures will determine its durability. Most junction boxes are made of cast aluminum, metal or steel, fiberglass, or PVC. For outdoor installations, it is best to use weatherproof items for safety and security.
Keep in mind that if you use residential electrical boxes or planning to upgrade your home circuit system, you need to invest in heavy-duty, durable containers. These enclosures house all your house wire connections are responsible for providing electric supply to your devices and home appliances. There are various types of electrical boxes available in the market right now.
All of which come in multiple features to meet individual projects and needs. Generally, most electrical enclosures are made with either plastic or metal. Metal enclosures are made of steel, while plastics are either fiberglass or PVCs. Between plastic vs metal electrical boxes, your choices will be based on the details mentioned above.
These boxes work by holding home electrical outlets and switches. However, these are large enough to fit a couple to four devices in one.
They come either with old work or new work designs and have built-in grippers to secure the box in place. It offers a spacious interior for your wirings. They are used for multiple conductors in various directions and typically used as junction boxes and for walls or ceiling to support light home switches and fixtures.
Ceiling fan electrical junction box sizes vary per home and individual requirements. This should be UL-Listed and must have remarked as ideal for ceiling fans. Ceiling fan enclosures require specific tightening to withstand dynamic loads from rotating fans. Your electrical enclosures serve as the workhorse for remodels and repairs, which enable transition points for the home electrical system. Light switches, ceiling fans or lights, transitions, and outlets are several items installed in these boxes.
Checking the market, you may get overwhelmed with various types, shapes, and sizes available. But among those variations come metal and plastic as the most commonly used and installed for both residential and commercial spaces. To give you a clear overview of which one to choose between metal vs plastic outlet box, you need to determine several factors, including installation requirements.
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